Sober travellers find something to savour in wine country

Mocktail trails and olive oil tours are some ways renowned wine-producing areas are appealing to sober or sober-curious travellers. ILLUSTRATION: NYTIMES

NEW YORK – Ms Amy Snook knows more about wine than your average traveller. Originally from California, she now lives in the Douro Valley of Portugal. Her partner works in the wine industry and she has visited 47 countries, many of which have celebrated viticulture.

But seven years ago, on a trip to Mendoza, a winemaking region in the foothills of Argentina’s Andes Mountains, she opted to abstain from drinking alcohol, a decision she would repeat in future travels.

“It’s such a long flight to Argentina, and I was there for only 10 days,” said Ms Snook, 34, a publishing professional. “I’m aware of how alcohol affects me, and I chose to prioritise feeling amazing every day of the trip over dealing with a hangover.”

During her visit, she cycled between vineyards, revelled in breathtaking scenery, relaxed with spa treatments and engaged with sommeliers and winemakers, coming away with a new appreciation of sustainable and regenerative agriculture.

“The obvious question when you tell someone that you aren’t drinking is, ‘Out of all the places you could go, why travel to wine country?’” she said. “But to me, it makes perfect sense because these regions offer all the perks of luxury travel – wellness amenities, beautiful landscapes and fine dining.”

With 41 per cent of Americans seeking to reduce their alcohol intake, according to a consumer-sentiment study released in January by media company NCSolutions, Ms Snook’s experience is part of a larger trend – the rise of sober-curious or mindful drinking.

While sober travel is hardly a new concept, its popularity is surging to new heights – particularly among younger generations – and forcing a reckoning in the wine industry.

This trend is reshaping travel to world-class wine destinations like Sonoma County, in California, as well as Tuscany, in Italy, and Mendoza. Blessed with temperate climates, extended growing seasons, fertile soils, rich histories and breathtaking vistas, these renowned wine locales are expanding their offerings to attract drinkers and non-drinkers.

Here are some of the restaurants, tour groups and wineries in those regions that are reinventing the travel experience to be more inclusive of the sober-curious.

Dining in Sonoma

If wine is a true expression of the land, embodying the unique characteristics of its soil, weather and the meticulous craftsmanship of those who cultivate it, can you still forge that connection without drinking?

At Cyrus, a Michelin-starred fine-dining destination in Geyserville, California, the answer is a resounding yes. Sonoma County, double the size of neighbouring Napa, made conscious decisions to protect and diversify its land use, ensuring grapes as well as agricultural crops were grown.

Mr Douglas Keane, Cyrus’ owner and chef, highlights the local harvest by working with small farms and purveyors to source his ingredients. Crosnes – a Chinese artichoke – from Alexander Valley Vineyards gardens, yuzu and finger limes from citrus grower David Levine, and cheese from Andante Dairy have all ended up on Cyrus’ menu.

Also on the menu: Kally, an alcohol-free wine alternative produced with housemade organic verjuice and sourced from Northern California.

Served at more than 15 other Michelin-starred restaurants, Kally’s bottles include Early Chardonnay, which is crisp and bright, and changes flavour and aroma as it moves across the palate, similar to a fine wine.

A tart, vibrant Golden Sparkler has notes of jasmine and citrus, and a floral, fruity Rose Sparkler offers hints of strawberry and hibiscus.

“Chefs and sommeliers are interested in having precise non-alcoholic pairings. Their food was created to be prepared with sophisticated drinks, not just sparkling water,” said Mr Scott Mitic, who created the beverage along with his wife, Katie.

Customers, too, appreciate having a choice, he said, noting that many of Kally’s most loyal drinkers are wine enthusiasts. “This is not an abstinence movement. It is a moderation movement,” he added.

Women-led luxury in Mendoza

Mendoza, renowned for its Malbec wines and stunning Andean landscapes, is no stranger to luxury accoutrements. But sober guests? That is a newer phenomenon.

“We have definitely noticed an increase in guests seeking non-alcoholic travel options in recent years,” said Ms Victoria Stiles, sales manager at Cavas Wine Lodge, a luxury 18-room hotel set amid a 22ha vineyard.

At Cavas, wine may be the main attraction, but guests can book spa treatments using vine and grape-seed extracts, join yoga sessions on the private terrace overlooking the Andes and vineyards, and take full-day hiking excursions to Aconcagua Provincial Park, a rugged, mountainous destination that is home to Mount Aconcagua, South America’s highest peak.

Wild Terrains, a certified B-Corp travel company specialising in experiences for women, has planned three days of a 10-day Argentina tour to be sober-inclusive in Mendoza.

Built around women-owned businesses, stops include boutique lodging at Entre Cielos, horseback riding in the Andean foothills, home-cooked asado at Estancia Los Chulengos and a private-dining experience at Michelin-starred Zonda Cocina de Paisaje.

The meal offers special mocktail pairings with distinct flavours like lemon verbena, beets and burro, an herb used to make digestive teas and infusions.

Tasting olive oil in Tuscany 

An olive tree at a vineyard in Lucca, Tuscany, Italy, Aug. 2, 2018. In Tuscany, olive groves provide visitors to another way to indulge: By tasting locally grown and produced olive oil. PHOTO: NYTIMES

Wine tastings epitomise indulgence, especially immersed in the heart of Tuscany, when visitors can savour glass after glass of Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Mr Salvatore Ferragamo Jr, chief executive of the Il Borro wine estate and grandson of the fashion house’s founder, encourages guests to find other ways to indulge.

“The olive harvests in the autumn produce the region’s spicy, piquant ‘green gold’,” Mr Ferragamo said.

Il Borro, in Tuscany’s Valdarno, is a meticulously restored mediaeval village that includes 58 suites, three vacation villas, two restaurants, stables, working vineyards and olive groves.

Olive oil production began in 1996, following the recovery of varieties such as Frantoio, Moraiolo and Leccino that had long been neglected. Now, after touring some 32ha of organic groves, guests can engage in a tasting experience of two distinct oils – one full-bodied with floral, fruity and grassy aromas; the other robust, peppery and dark.

Another option, Tuscan Organic Tours, offers immersive day-long experiences that not only delve into wine and oil, but also other rich agricultural offerings. Delicious tours with private transportation highlight tastes and flavours that include Pecorino di Pienza, one of the most renowned Italian cheeses, saffron and fresh pastas.

The tours include visits to organic farms, lunches, tastings, and opportunities to participate in cheese-making and saffron harvesting. NYTIMES

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