How Michelin stars explain the world

The West’s relative loss of power is reflected in fine dining.

Michelin, once a North Atlantic thing, rolls into more and more territories out of mutual commercial interest, and it can’t not be in Asia, says the writer. PHOTO: AFP
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Akoko, a west African restaurant in Fitzrovia in London, receives its first Michelin star. Seeing the news, I dig around for my birth certificate to double-check something. Yeah, thought so. “General Hospital, Akoko.” We did it!

Here is another thought. In the past, a starred restaurant was somewhere that served French- or Italian-anchored cuisine. Japanese then penetrated that rarefied club. Notice the theme here. All high-income countries. All Western or Western-allied.

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